Local Review: Töska

Wood-Fired Pizza and Craft Beer in Mt. Airy

The moment you walk into Töska Restaurant and Brewery on Germantown Ave in Mt. Airy, you’re greeted by the nostalgic smell of a bonfire — the sweet, smoky scent of wood-fired cooking filling the air. I was instantly transported to the days of sitting around the fire bundled up in sweatshirts with friends. It’s the kind of aroma that immediately makes you feel cozy.

Although Töska may smell like your neighborhood wood-fired pizza shop, this place is so much more than that. It’s an elevated experience, blending the comfort of classic pizza and beer with a sophisticated, thoughtfully crafted menu designed to invoke savor and comfort, the kind of food you want to eat on a crisp fall day while watching football. This is exactly what general manager Andre Singleton was going for when creating Töska’s new fall menu.

At the heart of Töska is a wood-fired pizza oven inherited from the previous restaurant (Earth Bread and Brewery) that occupied the space. This is how Singleton, who joined the restaurant in June, saw the potential to build the entire menu concept around the oven.

Singleton, a Culinary Institute of America graduate and former executive chef, has shifted his focus to front-of-house management, but he still lends his culinary expertise to crafting Töska’s menu. “I can create, and you guys can go home happy and full.”

Singleton’s talent for putting a creative spin on classic comfort foods shines through in Töska’s fall menu, featuring reinvented versions of wings, fries, and beef. Think of dishes like short rib, sweet potato truffle fries, Mediterranean mezze, wood-fired wings, and steak frites.

“We’re not just pizza, we’re so much more,” Singleton explains. And that statement rings true as soon as you start exploring the menu. Sure, the pizza is still the core of the experience, but Töska goes beyond that. Take the Töska nachos, for example, which are made with tender short ribs, or the shroom pizza, where mushrooms are cooked to create a rich, earthy flavor that even non-mushroom lovers can appreciate.

The new buffalo cauliflower wings, bite-sized and served with house-made ranch, are a perfect vegetarian alternative to the traditional favorite. Then there’s the Motherland pizza, paying homage to the Albanian heritage of Töska’s three owners — brothers who also run the popular burger chain M2O. It’s a unique and flavorful nod to their roots, topped with Albanian sausage, onion, and balsamic vinegar.

Singleton’s partnership with the Albanian brothers, Jim, Leo, and Pep Osmanollaj, who have owned Töska for over a year, was a natural fit. “We just clicked,” Singleton says, recalling their shared vision for creating an approachable yet elevated restaurant. Töska’s interior also reflects that balance—it’s a two-story space full of rustic charm, with exposed wood and plenty of character. It’s a spot where you could grab a beer, watch the Eagles game, and enjoy a meal that goes beyond typical pub fare.

And speaking of beers, everything on Töska’s menu is proudly Pennsylvania-based, from the food to the alcohol. You won’t find mainstream brands like Grey Goose or Jack Daniels here — only local spirits, wines, and beers. It’s a commitment to sourcing locally and supporting Pennsylvania’s rich array of breweries, distilleries, and farms.

If you’re visiting during a Philly sports game, Töska offers some great specials: $3 off wings, $1 off bottles and cans, $1 off guest taps, and $1 off house-made cocktails. These specials are available for all Philly games – Eagles, Phillies, Flyers, Sixers, and the Union!

During our visit, we tried various dishes beyond the pizza menu. The dry rub wings, cooked in the wood-fired oven, were some of the best wings I’ve had in the city — crispy skin, juicy meat, and perfectly seasoned.

We paired them with a side of buffalo sauce for a classic kick. But the star of the night was the short rib entrée. Tender and melt-in-your-mouth, it was served with a homemade BBQ glaze that was sweet and thin, almost like a glaze rather than a sauce, and served over baby potatoes and asparagus. It’s the most beautifully plated dish you’ll ever get from a pizza shop.

For pizza, we tried a classic margherita. While it had great flavor, I wished the crust was a bit crispier. Still, it was a solid, satisfying pizza, and I’ll be back to try some of their specialty pies, like the Korean BBQ pie.

To finish, we shared one of Töska’s famous ice cream sandwiches — the only dessert on the menu, but one they’ve perfected. With four flavors to choose from, we went with the banana pudding, which featured a thick graham cracker crust and was just the right size for two to share. Even this was plated like you ordered it at a fancy steakhouse. The details are not lost in the flavor or the presentation of any of the dishes.

Singleton has poured his dedication into Töska, and it shows. Töska is a notable highlight in Mt. Airy’s dining scene, distinguished by its creative approach that extends beyond its identity as a pizza shop. The variety and quality on offer make it a compelling choice for diners seeking something more than the usual.

Töska Restaurant & Brewery
7136 Germantown Ave (Mt Airy)
215-716-7733
toskabrewery.com
@toskaphilly on IG

🗣 COMMENTS WELCOME! 🙌

What do you think? Have you been to Töska? Do you have a favorite menu item? Or a tip for another good Mt. Airy spot? Please leave your comments below, and catch up with me on Instagram @gingersliketoeat. If you enjoyed this feature, please check out last month’s column on the delicious Andean and Mexican fusion at Orale Venezuela. 😋🫓🌽🥑🍋‍🟩

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Eleni (@gingersliketoeat)

About Eleni Finkelstein 32 Articles
Eleni Finkelstein (aka @gingersliketoeat on Instagram) is a South Jersey and Philadelphia-based food blogger and journalist. She loves traveling, trying new foods, and cheering on Philly sports teams. You can check out her book, "Eat Like a Local: South Jersey" on Amazon.

Be the first to comment

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.


*


This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.