Global flavors, local soul — Dohō surprises and inspires in Mt. Airy
You don’t expect to find one of the city’s most interesting new restaurants tucked inside a catering company, but that’s exactly what’s happening in Mt. Airy. Dohō, which just opened in September, is a small, softly-lit space where the line between neighborhood comfort and global influence blurs in the best way.
The restaurant grew from an idea that started during the pandemic, when Catering By Design began selling tacos to-go one day a week out of its commissary kitchen. The team didn’t expect those bao-taco hybrids to take off, but the response was immediate. When normal operations resumed, the idea eventually evolved into a full restaurant. Dohō’s name pays tribute to that origin story, with “Dough” referencing its taco roots and “Hō” honoring Hortter Street, where the restaurant now lives.
A Pandemic Pop-Up Takes Off
The catering company has operated for more than three decades, and for about fifteen of those years, this building has been its home. By day, it still functions as a catering company, but each evening, the team transforms it into a full-service restaurant. The staff themselves helped with every part of the design, from hanging wallpaper to turning propane tanks into planters. The space feels personal and handmade, industrial in bones but cozy in spirit, with cushions and warm tones softening the warehouse nature of the space.
Dohō is led by owners Peter Loevy and Roth Perelman, with Perelman also serving as executive chef. Chef de Cuisine Lee Richards and Restaurant Manager Anders Adams round out the leadership team. Their collective experience runs deep. Loevy has managed Catering By Design for more than thirty years, while Perelman has cooked in some of the country’s top kitchens, including Chestnut Hill standout Mica, Lacroix at the Rittenhouse Hotel, and Jean-Georges, New York. Richards previously worked at Cheu, and Adams brings his hospitality background from Hop Sing Laundromat.
Global Roots, Refined and Remixed
The menu is described as a New American–style bistro that highlights bold flavors from Latin America and East Asia, refined with European influences and modern technique. How do they wrap up every corner of the world in one menu? The approach is not about forcing cultures together but allowing global ingredients and ideas to flow naturally into each dish. The menu changes with the seasons and uses locally sourced ingredients, so what you eat today may look different in a few months, but that is part of the fun.
Plates are meant to be shared, with the team suggesting one to three per person. The sweet potatoes arrived first and immediately set the tone for the meal. They were salty, sweet, and a little sour all at once, thanks to a salt-and-vinegar mix that gave them just the right amount of tang. The pork belly buns, one of the restaurant’s most playful dishes, were filled with tender pork and topped with thin slices of Honeycrisp apple, one of my favorite ways to bring fall flare to a dish.
Then came the fried chicken, and with it, a surprise. A single chicken foot rested on the plate, an unexpected touch that made me pause before diving in. The chicken itself was perfectly crisp, juicy, with a sweet sauce. Moist towelettes arrived with the dish, a thoughtful detail that said as much about the team’s hospitality as the food did. The pomegranate lamb shoulder followed, rich and aromatic, reminiscent of the famous version at world-renowned Michael Solomonov and Steve Cook’s Zahav in Old City, but with Dohō’s own personality. The meat pulled apart easily and carried deep layers of flavor, both comforting and complex.
Each dish shows respect for the traditions that inspired it. The Badger Flame Beets feature a house-made beet XO sauce that bridges local produce with East Asian flavor. For dessert, the warm chocolate chip cookie (my absolute favorite dessert of all time) was elevated with miso and brown butter to create a warm, savory finish.
More Than a Meal, Made with Intention
Mt. Airy has embraced Dohō from the start, and the team’s connection to the community is clear. Their catering company has long been a neighborhood staple, and the restaurant feels like an extension of that bond. Anders Adams described the experience as a labor of love, a nightly transformation that reflects the versatility and heart of the entire team.
Dohō plans to keep evolving its menu, adding new seasonal dishes and expanding its low- and no-alcohol cocktail selection. The team’s focus remains to continue serving exceptional food and creating memorable experiences for everyone who walks through the door. In the future, I’d love to see some tacos on the menu to pay homage to their roots!
Even with a small (but mighty) menu, Dohō brings together multicultural influences with an unmistakably local warmth. The space glows with care, the food feels crafted with intention, and the staff carry a genuine pride that you can feel from the moment you sit down. Dohō embodies Philadelphia’s food scene at its best, with its great backstory, innovative flavors, and one-of-a-kind location that could only exist here.
Dohō Taqueria — New American-style bistro showcasing Latin American and East Asian flavors. Seasonal, locally-sourced, and sustainably-raised ingredients, with unique wines, craft beers, and distinctive spirits.
18 West Hortter St (Mt Airy)
Open Tues – Sat, 5pm – 9pm
Closed Sun/Mon
dohorestaurant.com
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COMMENTS WELCOME! 
What do you think? Are you a fan of fusion, or curious about what to try? If you have a favorite dish or restaurant tip, please comment below, or catch up with me on Instagram @gingersliketoeat. If you enjoyed this feature, please check out my last column on Manorah, a Southern Thai restaurant in nearby Bryn Mawr.
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